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Balsamic vinegar

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Balsamic vinegar
TypeCondiment and salad dressing
Place of originItaly
Region or stateModena and Reggio Emilia, Emilia-Romagna
Main ingredientsWhite Trebbiano grape juice, Lambrusco grape must

Balsamic vinegar (Italian: aceto balsamico) is a dark, concentrated, intensely flavoured vinegar made wholly or partially from grape must: freshly crushed grape juice with all the skins, seeds, and stems.

Etymology

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The Italian word balsamico (from Latin balsamum, from Greek βάλσαμον, bálsamon) means 'balsam-like' in the sense of "restorative" or "curative"; cf. English 'balm'.[1] Ultimately from Ancient Hebrew-Phoenician בשׂם (bāśām or besem, IPA [baːˈɬaːm]), the name means 'perfume or spice', with the consonant sequence of the letter 'λ' and 'σ' deriving from Ancient Greek to pronounce the שׂ (ś) sound, sounding back then as [ɬ].[2][3][4][5][full citation needed][6]

History

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The term balsamico in "balsamic vinegar" originates from the Latin word balsamum and the Greek word βάλσαμον, both conveying the idea of something "restorative" or "curative". The practice of cooking grape can be traced back to ancient Roman times, where it was valued both as a medicinal remedy and a sweetener or condiment in cooking. The story of balsamic vinegar began in the 11th century in the city of Modena; by 1046, it was already gaining a wider reputation. The future Holy Roman Emperor, King Henry III, requested Marquis Bonifacio of Canossa to craft a high quality vinegar in his castle. By the late 1200s, vinegar production flourished at the Este Court in Modena, with the term balsamic first recorded in 1747 in the ledgers of the Este family cellars.[citation needed]

In the second half of the 19th century, the provinces of Emilia joined the newly formed Kingdom of Italy, and balsamic vinegar of Modena was promoted at national and international exhibitions. While aristocratic families cultivated a refined balsamic tradition, local peasant families began to blend it with wine vinegar, creating a lighter version for everyday use.[citation needed]

This practice eventually led to the creation of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI and widespread distribution across the world. Historically, in the area of Modena and Reggio, the vinegars produced in the houses were made more pleasant by flavouring them with herbs, liquorice, rosemary, roses, vanilla, or by producing them with different raw materials (trebbiano, moscato...) or procedures, creating over the centuries a widespread fame for "Modena-style vinegars".[7]

In 1747, in the registers of the cellars of the Ducal Palace of Modena, located in Rubiera, the adjective "balsamic" appeared for the first time, to distinguish a particular type from the many others present in the palace.[8] In 1830 this definition was further refined, so that the vinegars present at the Court were divided into "balsamic", "semi-balsamic", "fine", and "common".[citation needed]

With the birth of the Italian State in 1860, the awakening of the markets gradually aroused more interest in balsamic vinegar, and considerable historical and bibliographical research was carried out on this product. At the end of the 19th century, the balsamic vinegar of Modena began to appear at exhibitions, creating great interest locally and internationally.[citation needed]

From a regulatory point of view, the first ministerial authorization to produce "balsamic vinegar of Modena" dates back to 1933. After World War II, the economic boom led some producers, such as Telesforo Fini and the Monari-Federzoni family, to market a different product under the name "balsamic vinegar", which was a mix with wine vinegar for daily use. This made balsamic vinegar common on Italian tables and began its spread to foreign countries.[9]

In 1965, further regulations on the use of the term "balsamic vinegar" were established, and the first production regulations for "balsamic vinegar of Modena" were created. In 1976, to distinguish traditional production methods from industrial ones, the term "natural" balsamic vinegar was adopted, later changed to "traditional" due to legislative requirements.[citation needed]

European protection

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The term aceto balsamico is unregulated, but there are three protected types of balsamic vinegar:

Many products contain Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP as an ingredient, such as glazes and other condiments.

"Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO" and "traditional balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO"

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Main article: Traditional balsamic vinegar
The two Italian traditional balsamic vinegars from Reggio Emilia (left) and Modena (right) with protected designation of origin status (PDO), in their legally approved shaped bottles

Only two consortia produce true traditional balsamic vinegar, that of Modena and neighbouring Reggio Emilia. True balsamic vinegar is made from a reduction of pressed Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes. The resulting thick syrup, called mosto cotto in Italian, is subsequently aged for a minimum of 12 years in a battery of several barrels of successively smaller sizes.

The casks are made of different woods such as chestnut, cherry, oak, mulberry, ash, and juniper. True balsamic vinegar is rich, glossy, deep brown, and has a complex flavour that balances the natural sweet and sour elements of the cooked grape juice with hints of wood from the casks.

Reggio Emilia designates the different ages of their balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia) by label colour. A red label means the vinegar has been aged for at least 12 years, a silver label that the vinegar has aged for at least 18 years, and a gold label designates that the vinegar has aged for 25 years or more.

Modena uses a different system to indicate the age of its balsamic vinegars (aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena). A white-coloured cap means the vinegar has aged for at least 12 years and a gold cap bearing the designation extravecchio ('extra-old') shows the vinegar has aged for 25 years or more.

Balsamic vinegar of Modena

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Main article: Balsamic vinegar of Modena
Aged balsamic vinegar of Modena PGI (three years)

These commercial-grade products imitate the traditional product. The current standard is found as part of the register of PGI productions, under the name Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (aceto balsamico di Modena). It was added to the PGI list in 2009.[10]

They are made of as little as 20% grape must (and not necessarily from Modena or Reggio Emilia), with the addition of wine vinegar (at least 10%), and caramel (at most 2%) to stabilize the color.[10] PGI status requires a minimum ageing period of two months in wooden barrels, rising to three years when labelled as invecchiato ('aged'). The standard mandates a number of acceptable cultivars (Lambrusco, Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Albana, Ancellotta, Fortana, Montuni) for the making grape must from. The must can either be cooked or concentrated some other way. Vinegar that has been aged for at least 10 years also needs to be included in the product, though there is no minimum amount prescribed.[10]

As the manufacturing process is highly industrialized, the output of a medium-sized producer may be hundreds of litres per day.

Italian condimenti that used the term balsamic

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Italian "Carandini" brand balsamic glaze with the PGI, sold in Mexico

Condimento ('dressing') balsamic vinegars may be labeled as condimento balsamico, salsa balsamica or salsa di mosto cotto. For those products, there is a risk of creating confusion among consumers looking for the original Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI, the two different Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO, and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO.

Condimento balsamic vinegar may be made in any of the following ways:

  • Made by producers of both Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI or Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena/Reggio Emilia PDO, by using the PGI or PDO as an ingredient. For those products, the use of the PGI and PDO as an ingredient must be clearly reported, i.e. "glaze with Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP". The Consortium must approve the label and the use of the PGI's/PDO's name.
    • A common product is a "balsamic glaze", with added sweetener and thickener to artificially simulate the sweetness and thickness of the aged aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena.
  • Made by the same method as the vinegars, but by Italian producers outside Modena and Reggio Emilia provinces and not made under consortium supervision. No reference to the PDO/PGI can be made for those products, and they cannot use the geographical names Modena or Reggio Emilia.

As there are no official standards or labelling systems to designate condimento balsamic vinegar, it can be hard to tell their quality based on the packaging alone.[11]

Comparison

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From a legal point of view, TBV is categorized as "food condiment", while BVM is a "wine vinegar". BVM can be produced without a lengthy aging period, whereas TBV gains its particular features during a long aging period fixed by law at no less than 12 years. TBV is the only condiment in the world produced starting from cooked grape musts without the adding of other substances,[12] whereas BVM is a blend of concentrated grape musts, wine vinegars, and caramel (optional).

Traditional balsamic vinegar Balsamic vinegar of Modena Thickened balsamic condimenti
Production
Starting materials Cooked must from grapes harvested in Modena or Reggio Emilia provinces of permitted vine cultivars.
Must cannot be sulphitated. 		Concentrated grape musts, wine vinegar and optional caramel (max 2% w/w) - the basis of vineyards ampelographic is imposed by law, but the permitted vines can grow outside the Modena province.
Concentration can be done by cooking or another method. Must may be sulphitated, with a maximum amount of residual sulfite specified. 		Commonly contains starting materials similar to BVM, with added thickeners such as modified or native starch, glucose/fructose syrup, pectins, guar gum, xanthan, carob seed, etc. are always added).
Making procedure Alcoholic fermentation of sugars, acetic oxidation, aging period inside a set of wooden casks, refilling procedure throughout the years, annual withdrawal and bottling. The overall procedure is carried out on a small scale. Mix of the starting materials, facultative maturation in an unspecified number of wooden containers, and bottling. The overall procedure is carried out on an industrial scale. Mix of the starting materials and packaging. The procedure is carried out at industrial scale.
Legal aging The residence time of the product inside the set of barrels is determined by the refilling and withdrawing procedure. The minimum aging time is no less than 12 years. The minimum aging time is no less than 60 days. No minimum limit for aging.
Distribution
Bottling The product is sealed inside the patented 100 mL glass bottle The product is sealed inside various types of bottles (minimum 250 mL of capacity) or single-dose plastic packages (maximum 25 mL) The product is sealed inside various types of packages of different capacity
Pricing[13] Ranging between 40 and 250 euros Ranging between 2 and 40 euros Ranging between 2 and 350 euros
Characteristics
Minimum density TBVM 1.24 g/mL - TBVRE 1.20 g/mL The relatively high density is the result of the water evaporation during the long aging period. 1.06 g/mL - Higher density values depend on the degree of grape must concentration. Not required: Higher density values are possible as a function of recipes.
Minimum of total acidity TBVM 4.5 g/100 g - TBVRE 5 g/100 g of acetic acid equivalent, the acetic acid is biologically produced in the early stages of making procedure, then it concentrates during aging. 6 g/100 g of acetic acid equivalent. The acetic acid comes from both the starting ingredients or from aging (a wide range of must-to-vinegar ratios are admissible). Not required
Colour Dark brown, limpid and bright, color is determined by nonenzymatic browning reaction of sugars starting on grape must cooking stage and progressing during aging. Dark brown, limpid and bright, brown colour can be enhanced by added caramel (E150d) Dark brown, limpid and bright, brown colour can be enhanced by added caramel (E150d)
Viscosity The viscosity of TBV is mainly affected by the amount of the high molecular weight melanoidin, a heterogeneous class of biopolymers that form and accumulate during the ageing process.[14] Viscosity is lower than TBV ones, although it can be enhanced by adding caramel. The flow properties are very similar to the TBV ones, but they originate from the adding of thickeners.
Sensory evaluation It is a prerequisite for their commercialization. Sensory panels are long-time, trained judges, but sensory procedures are not standardized, often leading to irreproducible scores.[15] Sensory characteristics defined in standard. Evaluation procedure not specified. Not required

Note: there is no standard for condimenti thickened to emulate TBV. As a result, the characteristics provided here are typical rather than required.

Unprotected types

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Italian condimenti that do not use the term balsamic

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There are also condimenti that do not use the term balsamic and hence implying even less about their method of production. The more balsamic-like products may be made by a producer of the PGI and the PDO inside Modena and Reggio Emilia provinces using a method similar to the vinegars, but not falling into the definition of either the PDO/PGI and not under consortium supervision. Examples can include a premium vinegar made from pure grape must (not a PGI because wine vinegar is required in the PGI)[16] to so-called "white balsamic" (Condimento Bianco, made to have a similar taste with a lighter color).[17]

Non-Italian balsamic vinegars

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Furthermore, non-Italian producers may produce products made by the same method as the vinegars, not made under consortium supervision. No reference to the PDO/PGI can be made for those products, and they cannot use the geographical names Modena or Reggio Emilia. However, because they are made outside of Italy, they are free to use the term "balsamic vinegar".

Inside of the EU, Germany and Greece both has established productions of balsamic vinegars. As a result, they opposed the original application of balsamic vinegar of Modena IGP until it was clarified that they will still be allowed to use the term "balsamic vinegar".[18] Greece also tried unsuccessfully to obtain a geographic indication of their local balsamic vinegar after the acceptance of the IGP.[19] In 2019, the European Court of Justice confirmed the protection on the PGI does not extend to the individual words of balsamico and aceto. As a result, producers in these countries remain free to use the words, so long as the product does not deceive the customer as to the origin of the product when the name is taken as a whole.[20][21]

  • Non-Italian balsamic vinegars
  • A Greek balsamic vinegar made at Agia Triada Monastery from aged must
    A Greek balsamic vinegar made at Agia Triada Monastery from aged must
  • Another Greek vinegar sold in the Czech Republic
    Another Greek vinegar sold in the Czech Republic
  • A Turkish balsamic
    A Turkish balsamic

Traditional processes

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Main article: Traditional balsamic vinegar
Barrels of balsamic vinegar aging

Traditional balsamic vinegar is produced from the juice of just-harvested white grapes, typically, Trebbiano grapes, boiled down to reach a minimum sugar concentration of 30% (brix) or more in the must, which is then fermented with a slow ageing process which further concentrates the flavours. The flavour intensifies over the years, with the vinegar being stored in wooden casks, becoming sweet, viscous, and very concentrated. During this period, a portion evaporates: it is said that this is the "angels' share", a term also used in the production of bourbon whiskey, Scotch whisky, wine, and other alcoholic beverages.

None of the product may be withdrawn until the end of the minimum aging period of 12 years. At the end of the aging period (12, 18 or 25 years), a small portion is drawn from the smallest cask, and each cask is then topped up with the contents of the preceding (next larger) cask. Freshly reduced cooked must is added to the largest cask, and in every subsequent year, the drawing and topping up process is repeated.[22] This process where the product is distributed from the oldest cask and then refilled from the next oldest vintage cask is called solera or in perpetuum.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "balsamic vinegar". Merriam-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary (11th ed.). Merriam-Webster. 2003. p. 95. ISBN 978-0-87779-809-5. Retrieved October 10, 2009.
  2. ^ Richard Steiner (1977). The Case for Fricative Laterals in Proto-Semitic. New Haven: American Oriental Society. pp. 123-129.
  3. ^ Rendsburg, Gary A. (2013–). "Phonology: Biblical Hebrew". In: Encyclopedia of Hebrew Language and Linguistics. Ed. by Geoffrey Khan et al. doi:10.1163/2212-4241_ehll_EHLL_COM_00000676.
  4. ^ Goldenberg, Gideon (2012). Semitic Languages: Features, structures, relations, processes. Oxford: Oxford University, Press. xix+363 pp. ISBN 9780199644919.
  5. ^ Leiden Indo-European Etymological Dictionary Series; 10.
  6. ^ Feliks, Jehuda (2007). "Balsam". Encyclopaedia Judaica. Vol. 3 (2nd ed.). Thomson Gale. p. 95.
  7. ^ "The History of Balsamic Vinegar". The Gift of Oil.
  8. ^ "Compare l'aggettivo "balsamico"". Museo Del Balsamico Tradizionalel. Archived from the original on January 17, 2012. Retrieved July 3, 2024.
  9. ^ "The History of Balsamic Vinegar". Balsamico Tradizionale.
  10. ^ a b c "eAmbrosia - Aceto Balsamico di Modena". ec.europa.eu.; Specifically, the product specification "Disciplina dell’utilizzo della Indicazione Geografica Protetta Aceto Balsamico di Modena" in it_0005_0430_spe_it_o.pdf
  11. ^ Bertolli, Paul (January 2000). "Balsamic Vinegar is Italy's Famed Elixir". Fine Cooking. No. 36. Taunton Press. Archived from the original on May 1, 2017. Retrieved August 29, 2022.
  12. ^ Vinegars of the World. L. Solieri and P. Giudici P. Eds. Springer-Verlag Italia S.r.l. (Milan, Italy)
  13. ^ http://www.twenga.it - April, 2010
  14. ^ Falcone, P.M.; P. Giudici. (2008). Molecular Weight and Molecular Weight Distribution impacting Traditional Balsamic Vinegar ageing. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry; 56(16); 7057-7066
  15. ^ Giudici, P.; Falcone, P.M.; Scacco, A.; Lanza, M.C. (2009). Analisi Sensoriale dell’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. Industrie delle Bevande, 38:27-42
  16. ^ "Condimento Oro Acetomodena Balsamic". Good Mansion Wines.
  17. ^ "What's the Deal With: White Balsamic Vinegar?". Kitchn.
  18. ^ "COMMISSION REGULATION (EC) No 583/2009 of 3 July 2009 entering a name in the register of protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications [Aceto Balsamico di Modena (PGI)]" (PDF). (10) It appears that Germany and Greece did not refer to the entire name, i.e. 'Aceto Balsamico di Modena' in their objections regarding the generic nature of the name proposed for registration, but only to some elements of it, namely the words 'aceto', 'balsamico' and 'aceto balsamico', or to translations thereof. However, protection is granted to the term 'Aceto Balsamico di Modena' as a whole. Individual non-geographical components of that term may be used, even jointly and also in translation, throughout the Community, provided the principles and rules applicable in the Community's legal order are respected.
  19. ^ "Tutela del balsamico di Modena Sull'aceto è scontro Italia-Grecia". Italia a Tavola (in Italian).
  20. ^ "German balsamic vinegar – The protected geographical indication (PGI) Protection is granted to the term "Aceto Balsamico di Modena" as a whole - CERHA HEMPEL Rechtsanwälte GmbH". www.cerhahempel.com.
  21. ^ "EU COURT RULES THAT 'BALSAMICO' AND 'ACETO' ARE NOT PROTECTED BY PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION — Food Compliance International". foodcomplianceinternational.com.
  22. ^ "Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena". Archived from the original on April 13, 2010. Retrieved March 25, 2010.
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